The approach chosen to analyze and deepen our knowledge of Costa Rican coffee: Learning from distinct types of organizations.
Face-to-face with artisans: Damien and Rodrigo Zuniena
At the workshop of Café Berendo, a partner for whom we roast exclusive coffees, the owners Lyse and Nathalie, passionate individuals motivated by their thirst for novelty, had planned an interview with Damien Zuniena. After getting acquainted, I approached Damien with specific questions about the methods used to combat roya, and I realized from the quality of his answers that I was meeting a producer and not a commercial agent. Damien gave us an intelligent and detailed description of the family farm.
In November 2016, during a trip to Costa Rica as part of the coffee route, I headed to the Rivas Pueblo region to discover and visit Damien's project. It's difficult to express the pleasure I felt being able to personally explore the places that ignite this young man's passion.
Damien was in Montreal at the time, so his father received me. Introduction to Rodrigo Zuniena: he and his brothers shared the family farm, located in Rivas Pueblo, Nuevo Perez Zeledon, Costa Rica. One of Rodrigo's children, Damien, who lived in Montreal for several years, brings a fresh and different perspective to the development of the estate. His great motivation led him to produce his own coffee on the plantation. During the visit, Rodrigo proudly showed us the new sector that belonged to Damien.
The cultivated plots face west and benefit from ideal sun exposure at the end of the day while taking advantage of the shade in the morning. The angle of the terrain allows for rainwater runoff without causing erosion; for this purpose, fruit trees, erected to guard against these inconveniences, stood nobly. The altitude of the finca is between 1,200 and 1,800 meters. It is cultivated up to 1,600 meters. The botanical varieties grown are Catuai, Bourbon, and Catimor. The climate and soil are perfect for Catuai and Bourbon, while the presence of Catimor is explained by the devastation caused by rust, an epidemic that destroyed most plants in recent years. The Catimor variety is more resistant to the disease, but less interesting in taste, so it is often not appreciated by roasters. It provides the farmer with an income allowing him to cover his expenses.
The five- to six-hectare finca allows for selective quality harvesting. The producers prefer a long method that ensures grain homogeneity, which will offer a cup with beautiful complexity.
During the harvest, which was starting when I visited, the fruits are picked and transported daily, at the end of the day, to the beneficio (processing site), by Fabricio, Rodrigo's youngest son. Pulping quickly begins to prevent early fermentation. The beneficio, which is shared by other artisans, is altruistic in nature.
The beneficio
For Drexeler "Lele," the operations manager, who is also a farm owner, they must "keep post-harvest procedures at a human level, serving partner members." He was referring to cooperatives that, by becoming so large and cumbersome, lose the primary reason for their existence: to provide collective support. I question the gaze of this man I don't know and detect that of a builder, or respectfully, I sense authenticity. Is he waiting for an answer? A comment? I give him my point of view: "What a chance you have, to fulfill yourself through your work while respecting your ideals!" I emphasize: "The most remarkable thing is the respect for nature, for the land, for people, that you transpose into your customary actions." I specify that these individuals do not need certification bodies to dictate how they operate. We are not criticizing cooperatives and certification bodies; we are confirming an observable movement, the prelude to the use of other forms of collaboration.
Drying beds
On the drying beds was coffee from several producers. On one of them rested an extraordinary quality of beans. I asked "Lele" to find out who these beans came from, and he proudly replied that they were Rodrigo's. Already, we could see the results of the family's hard work and perseverance, which became a source of inspiration for their fellow coffee growers.
Often, we hear people say: "the most important thing during travels is the encounters." Yes, these moments help us grow; this part of my journey and the people I met confirm that listening and openness to differences create great wealth, as well as inventive people.
Damien, I fully understand your motivations for coming home.
