With no specific expectations for this meeting, Rachel had agreed to see us upon her return from Asia. I already deduced that her travel destination represented the market for her coffee. I was about to get answers to the thousands of questions that concerned me about the reputation of this Arabica: Geisha. The same feelings as during my exploration of coffee terroirs in Hawaii came back to me; more than anything, I wanted to demystify the reputation of "Geisha."
History and specifics: Geisha is the name of an original botanical variety, discovered in 1930 in the town of Geisha in the mountains of southwest Ethiopia. Cultivation began in the 1960s in Panama. However, the full impact and renown of "Geisha" began in 2004 during the "Best of Panama" (BOP) event. This competition, developed and established in 1997 by the "Specialty Coffee Association of Panama (SCAP)," saw Geisha win first prize. Since this phenomenon, a wave has been created on the global coffee scene.
Monday at 9 AM, Rachel was there for the appointment. We immediately set off to explore the terroirs the hacienda owned in Boquete. We journeyed through majestic landscapes that opened up before us thanks to the altitude of the plantations. The "Geisha" coffee plant displayed a different appearance, quite tall with thin leaves. Many plants had ripe fruits, but the majority were just beginning to ripen. Boquete is a truly unique town because of its roads, which provide direct access to the production sites; most are paved, which is truly exceptional.
Hacienda Esmeralda
The Peterson family hosted us on their land. Rachel is the granddaughter of the hacienda's founder, Rodolph A. Peterson, a California native of Swedish descent. Acquired by the Petersons in 1967, the farm previously belonged to Hand Elliot, a Swede, who had owned it since 1940. It was in the 1980s that the estate diversified into coffee cultivation, and today, the total area for coffee spans 50 hectares. Following what happened in 2004, Rachel's brother, Bob, became interested in "Geisha." After several years of research and trials, he undertook a program to plant this variety in carefully chosen locations. Altitude, shade, and volcanic soil are essential and important factors to maximize yields and achieve the fine complexity of this coffee.
The Moment of Truth: The Cupping.
Strategy: I advise you to remain calm before tasting and to have no expectations. Certainly, because I completed a sommelier training late in life and also had the good fortune to have tasted great appellation wines, I always let my mouth decide, not my mind.
The table is set, four coffees await us. I go in blind, without gathering information beforehand about what we are supposed to analyze. The first is smooth, with a floral finish, but lacks freshness. The second is round for my oral cavity with a bouquet of white fruits at the end. The third is full of delicacy with its fine acidity that gracefully tickles my taste buds, in retro-olfaction. Jasmine aromas unfold. The last surprises me with a delicate vinous presence; my first reflex is to suspect a trap. Often during cupping sessions, the "Catador," head of the laboratory, tests us with a cup with a defect. I remember experiencing this situation multiple times, in different countries. I keep my cool and continue, tasting the second cup. Each time we perform this exercise, five infusions of each coffee are prepared, due to the risk of finding one or more bad beans. The second cup confirms the flavor, and I deduce that we are tasting a coffee that has been processed with a marginal post-harvest treatment.
Rachel and the laboratory manager, Laurie, confirm that all four analyzed coffees are "Geisha." The first three come from crops grown on plots at different altitudes; the fourth was from the same family but processed naturally. The fruit is sun-dried and then hulled, which gives it that vinous character.
Through this tasting, Rachel wanted to share with me what she claims are "Geisha," "Geisha," and "Geisha." The organoleptic profile of the same botanical variety will yield a cup directly correlated with the altitude, the type of soil chosen, the slope of the terrain, and the environment of the plot. In most agricultural operations, which man can transform with his dexterity and art, as with wine for example, the winemaker's savoir-faire is the key to success. We see the qualities of a coffee grower who is attuned to market trends and possesses the expertise and virtuosity necessary for the genesis of this plant's magic. My most precious memory of this experience is the honesty and transparency of this woman. Thank you for your integrity, Rachel.
